My first visit to Kosovo was dominated by cave exploration. It wasn’t intentional; it just so happened that most of the locations I wanted to visit were inaccessible.
On the way from Dečani, where I visited a beautiful Orthodox monastery guarded by KFOR, I drove to Đakovica. Since I was very hungry by that point, I stopped there to eat. At the same time, I looked at the map to see where else I could visit. My eyes fell on a spot marked as Kusari Cave, and I set off. The road ran through autumnal landscapes in the countryside, which brought back memories of my native Ukraine.
My visit to the cave
When I arrived at the location, I discovered an abandoned ticket booth and trash scattered around. I was prepared for this, as reviews on Google Maps had mentioned the current state of the attraction. I was slightly less prepared for the group of men walking around the parking lot sharpening machetes. However, they soon left, and I grabbed my camera and headlamp and headed for the entrance.
Since the caves were once equipped for tourists, they have entrances with handrails. The lighting inside no longer works. But it’s no worse without it…
Once inside, you are enveloped in coolness even on the hottest summer day. You can hear the sounds of a cave waterfall, dripping water, and bats, who rightly consider themselves the masters of this place.
The beam of the flashlight cuts through the darkness and allows you to see more: the structure of the walls, narrow passages and passages to neighboring caves, various inhabitants in the form of spiders and other multi-legged creatures.
The beam of the flashlight cuts through the darkness and allows you to see more: the structure of the walls, narrow passages and passages to neighboring caves, various inhabitants in the form of spiders and other multi-legged creatures.
However, it’s not just the cave that will catch your eye. The location itself is so photogenic that it serves not only as a fantastic photo shoot location, but also as a film set.
Why is Kusari Cave called that?
The origin of the cave’s name was discussed on a local forum, and many suggested that it might come from the Albanian word Kusar (robber, thief, pirate).
However, I managed to find other information. Kadri Kusari was born in 1935 in the nearby town of Jakova, located 7.1 km north of the cave. He was a teacher at the local high school, then became the leader of the Revolutionary Movement for the Unity of Albanians. For his activities, he was sentenced to 11 years in prison, of which he served 4 and was released under an amnesty. He died on February 27, 1984. [1]. I dare to suggest that the cave was named in his honor.
More about Kusari Cave
The cave has three entrances, which are located a few meters apart. [2]. Perhaps others will be discovered in time. The interior of the cave has not yet been fully explored by speleologists.
Despite attempts to reconstruct and improve the entrance and paths to the cave, it remains virtually abandoned. The lighting inside does not work, and there is no attendant or ticket seller at the entrance. Fences and information stands are often vandalized. [3]. And visitors leave all kinds of rubbish behind, including feminine hygiene products scattered around the cave walls!
How to get there
By car
Entrance coordinates: 42.31987126016651, 20.446853633631708. I was driving from Gjakova and stopped for a bite to eat at a local restaurant. I took the local roads and drove through the village of Petrushan. You need to take the R-307 road — Esat Shehu.
By public transport
Take a bus to the bus station in the city of Gjakova. Here, change to a local bus to Kusar (cost approx. €1–2). Get off at the appropriate stop and walk about 1 km to the cave entrance, following the signs.
There is another cave near this one. — Shpella e Qirave (42.321132, 20.448830)
You can combine your trip with a visit to the beautiful town of Gjakovë and see the old arched bridge from the 15th century. (42.36153630508433, 20.50997027003255).