How did I end up here?

I discovered the ancient Ottoman bridge of Kurcaj near Tirana quite by accident. I needed to kill an hour and a half waiting for a friend to land at the airport. Sitting in a café, I opened a map and started looking at locations that might interest me. That’s how I stumbled upon the “Ottoman Bridge” marker on Google Maps and decided to go and take a look.

The road from the airport is partly paved (but with potholes and constant homemade speed bumps) and partly unpaved. Any car, even a passenger car, can drive on it. Just be prepared for the fact that the speed will not be high.

However, having arrived at the location, I can say that I did not regret it. The bridge has been restored and looks cool. And most importantly, there are no tourists.

About the Kurcaj Bridge itself

There are no reliable sources about its origin, so scientists believe that the Kurcaj Bridge was built in the 18th century, when many new bridges and roads were being built throughout Albania to connect major trading centers.

It is located on the Zeze River (Zezë, which translates from Albanian as Black) in the village of Kurcaj and was part of the ancient caravan route from Kruja to Tirana via Mukë and Zalkherri. In 1984, the bridge was declared a first-class national monument and is protected as a historical testament to the engineering achievements of its time. Today, the bridge is a historical and cultural heritage site. ^[1].

The bridge has a semicircular arch and two side windows, and the original cobblestone pavement has been preserved on the right side of the bridge.

On the front side, it is made of black stone slabs laid horizontally, and the cobblestone pavement is laid out in strips resembling stairs.

Эти полосы возвышаются над основанием мостовой примерно на 10–15 см и простираются каждые 100–120 см^[2].

It has not performed its original function for a long time. Another, more modern bridge has been built nearby, which is used by cars (including trucks traveling to a nearby quarry) and a small number of pedestrians.

During the devastating earthquake of 2019, the bridge was severely damaged and declared unsafe. It might have continued to deteriorate, but it was fortunate. As part of a program to restore the region’s historical monuments, it was rebuilt using original techniques. Now you can walk across it, admire the beautiful colors of the river, or descend from the opposite bank to the Zeza River itself.

Is it worth going?

Of course, it’s unlikely that you’ll find anyone as crazy as me, willing to drive half an hour off-road just to see another old bridge, of which there are countless in the region. However, if you don’t know what to do near the airport and feel like it, go there, you won’t regret it.

How to get to the Kurcaj Bridge

Public transportation does not go here. Therefore, the only convenient way to get there is by car.

You can drive from Tirana Airport by turning off the SH1 highway between Kamëz and Fushë Krujë in the Nikël area and continuing straight to the location at the coordinates (41.470800612728084, 19.821272999012905) or to the settlement of Kurcaj.

Another option is to travel from Krujë along Rruga Lek Zaharia, continuing straight ahead until you reach the location.

The road is a dirt road without any significant rocks. It is easily passable even in a passenger car with normal ground clearance.

What else to see nearby

In addition, a visit to the bridge can be combined with other interesting locations nearby. Upstream, about 650 meters from the road, there is a small waterfall (41.48066494178911, 19.83157912469754) and another, unrestored and abandoned bridge, Ura e Abdyl Agës (41.48511759565028, 19.83643487038838). The Kulari cave (41.490764304755515, 19.824191484657117) is also nearby. On the way here, you can take a detour to the beautiful lakes of Verjon National Park (41.45249923475188, 19.77054612209197).

A great idea would be to combine everything into one trip together with the city of Kruja, as you can drive there on the way and then return via the main road SH38, stopping in Albanopolis (41.47625811680282, 19.775909967243706).

This area serves as a natural reservoir, contributing to the conservation of water resources, and supports sustainable biodiversity thanks to its rich humus and gentle slopes, which create favorable conditions for perennial and forest plants. ^[3].

1. UNOPS/EU4Culture – Restored Bridge to Attract Tourists and Boost Local Economy.  United Nations in Albania. URL:  https://albania.un.org/en/225241-unopseu4culture-restored-bridge-attract-tourists-and-boost-local-economy.[↩]
2. Koha. Ura e kurcajt në Nickel të Krujës e patrajtuar. URL:  https://www.koha.net/en/kulture/ura-e-kurcajt-ne-nikel-te-krujes-e-patrajtuar[↩]
3. Kurçaj Bridge. The Triad of Arbanon. URL:  https://triadofarbanon.recshqiperi.org/kurcaj-bridge/.[↩]